As an interesting garden accent, weathervanes are worth considering
ACCENT Clipper Ship Weathervane
The ACCENT weathervanes are a great addition to any property. Manufactured from cast recycled aluminium with a black powdercoat finish, they will last a life time.
A customer from South Australia has recently installed one and writes:
“I bought this weather vane for my wife and we are really happy with it. We installed it on a small wooden archway in our garden. Being put onto wood the installation was extremely easy, 4 tek screws and I was done. The base has a good design that allows it to open to any angle and has slots rather than holes which allow for better placement of your screws.
It is sturdy, has the same level of detail on both sides and the size is just right. As they describe, it will never rust and the coating is very good quality as well. It won’t turn in very slight breezes, but a reasonable puff will move it to show the general direction the wind is blowing.
I’m very happy with the purchase and the quick delivery time – couldn’t find the same thing for a better price anywhere else either”.
Weathervanes have actually been in use for thousands of years, and for centuries were an important indicator for forecasting coming weather patterns. With the advent of modern forecasting techniques and technologies they have largely been superseded of course, but they remain an interesting link with nature and conversation point. Â
Bonsai for balcony gardens – wiring techniques for shaping
Bonsai has been described as “a curious mixture of horticulture and art”. As well as the basic horticultural principles needed to maintain a tree in a healthy condition, there is also a number of special techniques used to transform ordinary trees and shrubs into works of art. These include pruning, shaping and wiring. This week, Chris Xepapas discusses wiring techniques.
Shaping a tree using wiring techniques
BONSAI – AN INTRODUCTION – PART 4
Wiring is necessary for shaping and styling bonsai. Wire comes in a number of gauges and qualities. Your skill level it will determine on what gauge you use; the larger the gauge, the harder to bend without damaging the bark on a tree. It normally takes one full growing season to set a branch into a desired position, but if a particular branch needs to be wired for a second year, it is good practice to remove and rewind the wire so that the bark is not marked too deeply.
GAUGE SIZES
G1- Fine wire for wiring very fine branches and putting the finishing touches on bonsai for display.
G1.5 – As above, a little stiffer
G2, G2, G2.5, G3, G3.5 – These gauges are the core selection and will do the majority of your shaping
G4, G4.5 – Heavier gauge wire for main branch and small trunk bending
G5, G5.5, G6 – The heaviest gauges for heavy trunk and branch bending. Hard to use and protection on the tree such as raffia is recommended.
If branches do not bend with G6 wire, we use special techniques to bend branches and trunks using brace wires and clamps.
Bonsai wire is made of aluminium with a copper coating as so the tree does not react to the aluminum. The quality of the wire will also influence the result you get, especially at a beginner level. The cheaper wire, which is often Korean or Chinese, is a little harder to bend into place. It is also considerably cheaper. Japanese wire is best but can be pricey.
When applying the wire, it is important to remember some rules:
1- Do not wire the bonsai too tightly, you will damage the bark and scar the tree. If the wire is too loose, the effectiveness will be reduced dramatically. With practice, you will learn in time how tight to wind the wire.
2 – Do not cross wires when wiring. If the wire is left in place too long, it will result in ring barking that part of the tree. Wire in the same direction as any other wire to avoid this. Crossing wires also creates a pressure point, thus scarring the tree.
3 – When using heavy gauge wire or making large bends, use a protective film wrapped around the area wiring. Raffia or rubber tubing in most acceptable. We do this to reduce scarring from the heavy gauge wire and also to keep the cambium layer of the bark firmly connected to the wood of the tree.
On a finishing note, it is not good practice to reuse wire. It is almost impossible to straighten out the wire once bent and when trying to reapply the used wire, it will not wind correctly and risk damaging the tree. It is also advisable to use specially made bonsai wire cutters to remove the wire .
I strongly recommend that at a novice level, you practice on a spare branch on a tree in your garden – with time your wiring skills will improve.
Glass and polycarbonate both have advantages for use in greenhouse or patio cover glazing situations. So which is better overall?
Traditionally, greenhouses have been glazed with glass – glasshouses in fact. In recent years, however, advances in technology have resulted in the development of plastics such as acrylics (e.g. Perspex) and polycarbonates (e.g. Lexan or Suntuf) which are often used in glazing applications. Polycarbonate is widely used because it has a combination of high impact strength and clarity which no other plastic or glass can match.
Polycarbonate glazing – SILVER LINE AMERICANA
So which is better for glazing a greenhouse or patio cover, glass or polycarbonate?
Glass offers visual clarity and can last indefinitely in fully protected situations. However, it is heavy and this necessitates very strong frame design, typically with a large number of relatively small panes. This can result in maintenance issues with seals and gaskets perishing and leaks occurring. Glass is also susceptible to breakage from hail, balls, stones etc. and is expensive to replace.
Polycarbonate is virtually unbreakable, having an impact resistance 250 times that of glass. It is also light, which enables larger glazing panels to be used and reduces the need for heavy and bulky frame structure. Not all grades of polycarbonate are suitable; it is important to ensure that a good quality UV protected polycarbonate is used, and that product guarantees are offered. Whilst a UV protected polycarbonate has a service life of 15 – 20 years, a poor quality product will not last for more than 3 or 4 years in typical Australian conditions.
The question of aesthetics is also important to many people, and there is no doubt that the top end of the market where price is not so much of a consideration is still dominated by the traditional glasshouse. From a value for money perspective, however, it seems that polycarbonate is a clear winner!Â
But cost aside, there are some amazing glasshouses out there. Anyone who loves gardening and glasshouses should check out the Kew Gardens in the UK – see http://www.kew.org/
Bonsai for balcony gardens – an overview of bonsai styles
This week’s article about bonsai as a feature in balcony gardens focusses on the recognised styles of bonsai trees. Bonsai is a highly developed art form, and over the centuries practitioners have found it convenient to classify bonsai into broad divisions based on their appearance. Remember that the object of bonsai is to create a picture using real living trees; just as a landscape painter tries to capture a panorama on a small area of canvas, so a bonsai artist is attempting to produce a miniature which replicates a fully grown tree. Bonsai styles offer a structured framework which assists in this.
BONSAI – AN INTRODUCTION – PART 3
There are five basic styles:
 Formal upright (Chokkan) – must have a straight trunk and can be the hardest style to get correct because of its strict prerequisites.
Informal upright (Moyogi) – the most popular and easiest style to develop; requiring the tree to move any way as long as it reaches upright.
Slanting style (Shakkan) – as it sounds, the tree slants across the pot on a lean
Semi cascade (Han-Kengai)- this style requires the apex of the tree to lean below the rim of the pot but no further than the bottom of the pot.
Full cascade style (Kengai)- the tree must lean over the pot and down past the base of the pot.
Han-Kengai (Semi Cascade) Style
Other styles which are recognised include:
 Twin or triple tree plantings (Soju) – basically multiple trees planted together in a natural setting
Forest planting (Yose-ue) – when creating a forest bonsai, the number of trees used should be in odd numbers, starting at 5, 7, 9, 11, etc. If looking down on a pot there should not be vertical or horizontal lines of trees, diagonal is an exception, thus when viewing a forest, no tree is in front of another.
Root over rock (Seki- joju) – a tree is planted over a desired rock at a young age and over time the roots become attached to the rock and when planted into a bonsai pot, the roots and rock are then revealed.
Exposed roots (Neagari) – as it sounds, a tree has its roots exposed over a period of time; this represents a tree growing on a river bank that frequently endures the hardship of floods.
 There are other variant styles of bonsai which may incorporate two different styles in one but those described above are the source styles.  The subject of bonsai styling fills whole books – this article is just a very brief overview.
Keter’s new PACK & GO is great value for money in outdoor storage box solutions.
KETER’S new PACK & GO outdoor storage box
 Storing household items such as toys, sporting equipment, garden tools – the list is almost endless – is always a challenge. There never seems to be enough shelf and cupboard space inside the house! Outdoor storage box units are a great solution to the problem – weather proof storage space that can be put almost anywhere.
The new KETER PACK & GOÂ outdoor storage box is one of the best available – a high quality unit manufactured from injection moulded polypropylene resin, a plastic specifically formulated for outdoor use. With its built-in handles and wheels it is easy to move, and its design keeps the contents dry and ventilated. The lid is lockable and the unit is quick and easy to assemble. It certainly isn’t the very cheapest on the market, but its robust construction and quality of manufacture offer an unbeatable value for money proposition.
Welcome back to the ‘Introduction to Bonsai’ blog with Chris Xepapas, an expert with many years experience and a real passion for bonsai. This week Chris is focussing on the types of trees used for bonsai – interestingly these include native Australian tree types which are not always highly regarded as suitable bonsai material.
Port Jackson Fig bonsai
BONSAI – AN INTRODUCTION – PART 2
In this week’s blog we will discuss various species of trees which are suitable for bonsai.
Australia has a vast array of bonsai species available in both native and exotic varieties. It has been a misconception that Australian varieties cannot be trained into traditional styles of bonsai; I find this is false and have had lots of success with these trees. One trick to success with developing a bonsai tree is to know the variety’s growth habits and requirements.
EXOTIC TREES (Non Australian)
Japanese pines: black, white and red – these three species of pines are great for bonsai and have been used for many years in Japan and all over the world. They are readily available at specialist nurseries or can be grown from seed or cuttings.
There is also lot of literature  to assist you working with these varieties.
Swiss mountain pine – this tree is a slow growing plant and is suited to growing in containers. A very forgiving plant and is easily grown from cutting or seed.
Japanese maple and Trident maple –Â absolutely beautiful in autumn with a wide range of colors. Easily obtainable from any nursery.
Junipers of all varieties –Â these trees can give you some of the most interesting results with bonsai as their trunks can be twisted and bent to make some stunning trees. The foliage pads can also give a sense of age. Junipers require a little more care in developing.
Cypress varieties –Â similar to the junipers, but a lot faster growing and easier to look after. Very easy to acquire at any garden centre.
There are thousands of species that be used but the above are the most popular.
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NATIVE TREES
Banksia varieties –Â very impressive trunk growth and texture even at a young age. They suit pot growth very well but best trained from a young tree if trunk movement is required in the design.
Tea tree varieties –Â a wonderful tree to bonsai and very forgiving. Lovely aged looking bark from a very young age and nice small foliage. Hard to wire heavier branches so best to wire young branches before they fatten up; also can be a little thirsty with water. A must have bonsai.
Port Jackson figs – see photo –Â an Australian fig variety which is easy to grow. Don’t be turned off by the large leaf because as it is manipulated into a bonsai; the leaf size will decrease dramatically as the photo above shows.
She oaks –Â pine-like appearance in both trunk and needle texture. A little harder to work with, but with time can become a great bonsai.
Of course, the type of trees which are readily available will vary from state to state – but there is a great range of species available which can be developed into beautiful bonsai wherever you live.
Next week we will take a look at the traditional bonsai styles – these have been developed over centuries and are used as guides to shaping, appreciating and judging bonsai.
Balcony gardens are often used by people in apartments and units
Living in apartments and units is the lifestyle of choice these days – for many proximity to work and recreational opportunities as well as low maintenance are a priority. As with most things in life, this involves a trade-off – in this case, limited space for storage and activities such as gardening are part of the equation. There are many options available to help optimise space usage, such as weather proof outdoor storage units which can sited on patios and balconies, and also a number of mini greenhouse units for those who want to grow their own vegetables and flowers. We can look to other cultures for a few ideas also!
Living in smaller spaces is the normal way of life in many European and Asian cities – and people with an interest in gardening have long since developed and maintained balcony gardens or small gardens in a courtyard or patio. Bonsai has been an integral part of balcony gardening for decades; the fascination of a real living tree which is only a few centimetres high is something few people can resist, and surprisingly, bonsai are not difficult to care for if you observe some basic rules.
Bonsai expert Chris Xepapas of Heritage Bonsai has agreed to share an introduction to the art of selecting and maintaining bonsai – we will be publishing this over the next few weeks, so keep in touch!Â
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BONSAI – AN INTRODUCTION – PART 1
What is bonsai?
When pondering this question we often think of little trees in small pots and how we would love to have one! But is bonsai merely a tree in a pot?
The word Bonsai translates as a “tree in a pot or shallow dish”, but does the definition stop there? Can we just plant a tree and call it a bonsai or is it merely a stick in a pot?
The answer to that is not a easy one. Bonsai is a tree in a pot which follows a set of principles that have been developed over a thousand years in China and then perfected in the last 300 or so years in Japan. The level at which we choose to follow bonsai will determine the quality of bonsai we ultimately own; in other words the time we put into a bonsai in all developmental stages will determine the end result.
Acquiring a bonsai can be done in several ways. The first and most obvious way is to visit a specialist bonsai nursery and purchased a bonsai ready to go. This has its advantages and disadvantages. You can have a instant bonsai with great enjoyment, lots of support from the specialist bonsai nursery, and possibly aftercare. This situation would suit professionals who don’t have lots of spare time on their hands. The quality of the bonsai would vary greatly depending on price and the skill level of the nursery.
The second way to acquire a bonsai is to do it yourself; that is to purchase or dig up the appropriate material (yamadori) and create a bonsai from the “raw stock” and then pot it into a bonsai pot. This requires a whole new set of skill levels which in turn can give the beginner a great sense of achievement. This method is by far the most popular method.
The third way is to propagate your own tree from seed or cuttings and slowly grow the tree over a number of years, training the tree through wiring and pruning as it grows. This is the best method to use if you are seeking perfection, but obviously it takes the longest time to produce a bonsai.
Bonsai come in various shape and size categories. Size can range from miniature to one metre high. Styles can also differ from formal upright to full cascade. I also get asked, what tree do you use for bonsai? Quite simply any tree or shrub that produces wood can be bonsai, but of course some species are more suitable than others. My advice is to go with what attracts you the most; for example, if you come across a pine tree at a nursery that has a nice curve or a good set of branches that you find appealing then that’s the tree to buy!
Want to know more? In the next blog I will discuss the popular styles of bonsai, sizes and species used around the world, as well as our own Australian varieties.
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